Overview of October 1, 2019

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We began our day in Bemidji, MN and ended in Ely, MN. We stopped in Grand Rapids, Hibbing, Chisholm (Minnesota Discovery Center), Tower (Bois Forte Heritage Center) and Ely. In total we traveled 203 miles on this day. The temperature was about 43°F and overcast throughout the day. Vegetation had shifted away from corn and soybeans as we moved into a mixed deciduous/coniferous forest biome. 

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Bemidji - Country Inn and Suites

 

We left the Country Inn at 8 a.m. The vegetation shifted from agricultural land to a forest land (white pines, birch bark).

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Grand Rapids, Blandin Paper Mill

47°14’6” N 93°32’48” W 1300 ft

 9:30 a.m. 43°F

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After leaving Bemidji we then drove to Grand Rapids. At our brief stop at the Blandin Paper mill, we saw logs that had been harvested within 100 miles of where they were stacked at the mill until ready to be used. The trees used at the mill were mostly pines, spruces, soft woods, and aspens and they were mainly chosen due to them not needing a long time for regrowth. This ensures that the wood comes from a sustainable source.

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The logs are used in the mill to make paper products with their main product being the glossy paper used for magazine covers (UPM Paper 2019). The gloss is made of mostly clay and calcium carbonates. To the left of where we were parked, we could see lines of railroad cars with signs indicating they were transporting non-odorized petroleum.

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Downtown Hibbing Economic Activity

47° 5'35'' N 92°56'21'' W 1493 ft

10:43 a.m. 48°F

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We then left Grand Rapids to make our way to Hibbing and the Mesabi Iron Range which extends more than 100 miles from Grand Rapids to Babbitt, Minnesota (Hart and Ziegler 2008). On the drive there, as we started to see more forests though we could still see smokestacks and their emissions from behind the trees. These wooded areas along the highways are often intentional as they hide the ‘ugly activity’ conducted by mines and factories in the area. 

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We took some time driving through the downtown area of Hibbing where we saw a variety of businesses (mostly tertiary economic activities) like department stores, healthcare facilities, food, and other commercial businesses. The mines themselves don’t employ as many people anymore which is an indication of a decline in the mining business. We also briefly stopped at the Hibbing High school where around 1,043 students attend.

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We eventually made our way to the mine overlook (Mahoning Mine 47°44’93” N 92°94’66” W), though we couldn’t see it as we were at the old overview site since they had expanded the mining into the that overlook. We then found the entrance to the new overlook at the Mahoning Mine but still were unable to see it due to a scheduled blast to occur. 

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Minnesota Discovery Center 

47°27’28” N 92°53’44” W 1660 ft

11:15 a.m. 47°F

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We then arrived at the Minnesota Discovery Center where we went through the different exhibits depicting life in the iron range and mines. The Mesabi Iron Range had ore that ranged from 55% to 60% iron (Hart and Ziegler 2008) and the exhibits gave us an inside look into what it was like for the miners to be working in the mines during the early 1900s. 

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The conditions for miners were poor as the workers typically averaged 10-12-hour workdays and were only paid about $3 a day. They had to work in the dark in dangerous, unstable mine shafts with people who didn’t even speak the same language as them. It was also noted that their pay solely depended on how much of the resources they mined so if they were unfortunate enough to be assigned to a mine with minimal available resources, then their pay would reflect that.

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The discovery center also offered exhibits on what the daily lives were like for the workers outside of the mines. Many of them drove buggies to and from the mines and built small towns with schools, houses, churches, and saloons not far from the mines so that travelling to work was easier. Especially in the harsher winter months. Since many of the people in the towns had immigrated from different countries, the schools stood as cultural melting grounds where teachers would set aside time to help teach children how to speak English.

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During World War I, the area saw a boom in the mining industry but a decline during the Great Depression when the productivity had decreased from 43 million tons to 2 million tons in just three years. It was interesting to note that no where in the center could we find any information on the environmental impacts of mining.

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Bois Forte Heritage Center 

47°49’39” N 92°20’57” W 1380 ft

1:15 p.m. 50°F

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We arrived at the Bois Forte Heritage Center also called the “Legend House” or Atisokanigamig which is shown in Figure 17. surrounded by beautiful fall colors and near Lake Vermillion. Our speaker, Martha, arrived shortly after us explaining to us that they have a staff of two. She gave us a tour of their facility. She started by explaining that the facility opened in 2002 so that there would be a place to educate people and to keep artifacts so they can pass down the Ojibwe culture. Martha showed us the welcoming wall, which had pictures of band members from the past and present.

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Martha explained that the Ojibwe people migrated to this area about 500 years ago with their two sister tribes, the Potawatomi and the Ottawa. The sister tribes combined are referred to as the Anishinaabe. They traveled down the St. Lawrence River because an elder had a vision that they would have contact with white settlers. They moved west in order to avoid contact and follow the elder’s dreams of finding where food grows on water. This region is where they eventually settled and where they found the sacred wild rice (manoomin). This area is considered the largest producer of wild rice in the United States (Bois Forte).

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As the Anishinaabe people are considered ‘water-borne people’, they are also protectors of the water. Martha explained that not only the water is sacred, but everything is sacred. She explained that in their culture, everything is from the creator and that everything gives them life. She explained that they never take more than they need from the earth. They are concerned about the copper mines because they create pollution in the water which affects all life and especially the sacred wild rice.

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Martha explained the historical context of assimilation for the Ojibwe people, Figure 18. She called this time period “the dark era”. In the dark era, children were taken from their homes and forced to assimilate into white culture by attending boarding schools. In the boarding schools, children were punished for using their native language and for cultural practices. She explained that this era has affected the current state of indigenous cultures. It contributed to the loss of culture, language and created many issues for the people including alcoholism and domestic violence.

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They are currently trying to revitalize their culture by teaching the language and cultural practices. Martha explained that to her, everything is considered prayer.

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She showed us the artifacts that the facility was made to hold including the jingle dress which is used for a healing ceremony. She also explained that the forest brings medicine. The four sacred plants to the Ojibwe people are tobacco, sage, cedar and sweet grass. The seasons consist of maple tree tapping season in February, the fishing season starting in April, the hunting and trapping season and the wild rice harvesting season in the fall.

The tribal council originally consisted of 16 chiefs. It now consists of five members, a chairlady, a Vermillion representative and secretary treasurers.

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"We are still here,” -Martha.

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Sustainable Ely 

47°54’09” N 91°51’45” W 1480 ft

3:15 p.m. 47°F

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We arrived at the Save the Boundary Waters non-profit organization headquarters in Ely. We were greeted by the regional organizer and our speaker, Levi. He presented us with information regarding the historical context of the Boundary Waters area. He explained that the area has over 1000 lakes in the arrowhead of MN (Ely, Grand Marais and Duluth). He explained that the area is mostly federal and state land with some private land. There is about 2.5 million acres of land that is protected in this area.

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The Save the Boundary Waters organizational website explains that 20% of the fresh water in the National Forest system is in the Boundary Waters. It explains that a single Sulfite-ore copper mine would contaminate the waters for 500 years. Levi explained that the economic sector dependent on tourism will be affected by these mines, as the pristine state of the region is what draws in the tourism. (Save The Boundary Waters 2019).

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Levi explained that his main tool in these discussions is a large map that he showed us. He said that it is the best story telling tool to get a full context of what is happening in this area. In the watershed of the Rainy River the pollution from mines are affecting the chemical composition of the water.

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Historically, Levi explained that the land was originally surveyed by Walter Carhart. Carhart concluded his survey by explaining that the land was too beautiful to develop. It was first a no road zone and then was changed to a canoe route. The protected land was modified in the 1960’s and 1970’s when the government signed a permit allowing mining in the area. The Canadian Mining Company were granted a renewal to mine in the Boundary Waters by President Ronald Reagan. Currently there are about 1,719 mines and drilling sites. They are mainly mining for copper, nickel, platinum and gold. Levi explained that iron-ore mining contributes 99% waste and 1% ore.

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The Save the Boundary Waters non-profit organization currently has 112,000 people on its e-mail list and has 95,000 followers on Facebook. They are working to educate politicians and locals on the mining that is taking place in the Boundary Waters. The organization is working to draw attention to the beautiful and pristine watershed. Levi explained to us that the water is drinkable but with the increasing pollution, the sulfates being added affect the water quality and the vegetation it is exposed to.

 

Grand Ely Lodge

47°54'46"N 91°51'43"W

4:30 p.m. 48°F

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At the end of the day, we arrived at the Grand Ely Lodge which is situated on Shagawa Lake. We ate dinner and relaxed as we processed the day that we had.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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References 

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Hart, J. F., and S. S. Ziegler. 2008. Landscapes of Minnesota: a geography. St. Paul: Minnesota Historical Society Press.

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Save The Boundary Waters. 2019. About the Campaign. https://www.savetheboundarywaters.org/about-campaign (accessed November 8, 2019).

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UPM Communication Papers. 2019. Blandin Forestry. https://www.upmpaper.com/about-us/upm-in-north-america/blandin-forestry/ (accessed November 8, 2019).

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